Except for being wet, the two rivers are totally different in almost every respect. Before Manaus, they flow separately, then side-by-side for 4 miles or so past Manaus, in the same channel, but still distinctly separate. Then the waters begin to intermix and flow as one river for the rest of the distance across the continent to empty into the Atlantic Ocean on the North Eastern Coast of South America, nearly a thousand miles beyond Manaus. To have a true Amazon adventure, you must explore both.
Photo: Two rivers, one brown, one black, running side by side in front of our boat.
There are no bridges over the Amazon, mostly because there are no cities to go to. Even Manaus, a city of over two million, is not connected by road to anyplace else in Brazil. To get to Manaus, you must either fly in- or take the river and arrive by boat.
Between the dry and wet seasons, the rivers can rise more than 40 feet. In flood stage during the rainy season, the Amazon can be many miles across and hundreds of feet deep. In total, it carries the largest volume of water on the planet, almost 20% of all fresh water on Earth. It is a mighty river, indeed, irrespective of whatever statistics you use or what anyone says to the contrary.
About the two rivers:
One river, the Rio Negro, is very "acidity" (with a pH around 4.2). It is home to many different species of fish, and before flood stage, has a lot of sandy beaches that serve as "home" to turtles which use these beaches to lay their eggs.
The other river, Rio Solimoes, is "neutral", with a pH of around 7.0, close to the pH of human blood. One river has a flow rate of about 1.5 mph, the other a flow rate more than three times faster.
The things that live and thrive in each river are totally different, as are the lives of the people who live along the banks, and in the villages and jungles of each river system.
Where the two systems merge is thought to be a holy place, and religious ceremonies are held there. While we cruised in the area, we saw this Baptism being performed:
Photo: Baptism ceremony at point near where rivers meet to form The Amazon.
Along the Rio Negro, there is a certain place where dolphins come to feed. These are fresh water dolphins, pinkish in color, with a much longer mouth or "snout" than their saltwater cousins!
The other river, The Solimoes, is home to the dreaded piranha fish, whose reputation as man-eaters is due more to a scene of frenzied feeding in a James Bond movie than to their true nature.
Photo: Close up and personal with the piranha Nancy caught, then released.
Piranha will attack one another, but (they say) unless there is blood in the water- or they are trapped or starving to death, piranha will not attack a human. This was proved to us by one of the guides who dropped into the river to swim just after we finished fishing! Fine for him, but we wouldn't do it!
About the ship:
In doing our preliminary research, we discovered there is only one ship, Iberostar's "Grand Amazon", which has an elevator, sufficient staff, and equipment capable of dealing with someone in a wheelchair. She is comfortable to live aboard, but in a wheelchair, you cannot consider the vessel handicap accessible. Doorways are too narrow, and there are lots of compartment barriers you cannot cross without assistance. Immediately as we came aboard, I was afraid I had made a horrendous mistake.
I figured out a way to get Nancy into the cabin and the bathroom (which had a roll in shower), but it was the ship's general manager, Augustus, his caring attitude and willingness to help- as well as the attitude and willingness of his crew- that made our adventure possible- even wonderful!
They carried Nancy across every barrier, loaded her into excursion boats, did everything they could to make our adventure happen. When jungle treks and visits to native houses were scheduled for non-challenged passengers, Agustus made separate arrangements for us, and Nancy and I were taken elsewhere, privately, in a boat with two of the crew to care for us. |
